"You know what they say about us in Santorini; That we have bread to eat say" said a fisherman who balone nets, the first set katevika noon in the port of Anafis for food. The words that I heard countless times during my stay on the island. In the beginning I took to the complaint. But it was not.
"Rigmeni" by some geographical circumstances near the most prominent island of Cyclades, Anafi seems prima facie to defterotoki princess condemned to live forever in the shadow of large, beautiful aderfis. These phenomena, however, require.
Because, like any precious secret, this position allows it to remain hidden from the indiscreet, adifaga eyes of the tourist industry, a hidden paradise, which retains the charm of aloviti exclusively for those who will enter the trouble to explore.
The ship arrives at port evening. From far away, the little lights of the only village on the island, Country, barely distinguishable. If there were not too, will be difficult to ypopsiazosoun the existence of land. This must be the picture was also given food in the myth that wants to Anafi suddenly emerged from the sea to offer refuge to Jason and the Argonauts during their return from Colchis.
In the port are projects. "To acquire arm, to deepen and become, finally, normal port" say the locals. This year should have ended. The approach arm and the meltemia the Aegean are not at all easy.
Anevainoume the winding road to the Country. Short path without surprises. The hour is late, and surprisingly landscapes blurred in the dark. Cobblestones cobbled streets of Chora, however, is atmospheric and illuminated, in conjunction with almost apokosmi silence prevailing create a dream-like scene.
The double bed in the room is ktisto - but there are still ktista beds? - The cool both physically not noticed if there was air condition. The balcony seems to be hanging over the sea, which reflects the light of the moon in a apelpidi, tharreis, trying to remind people that nothing is more valuable than natural images.
The first morning coffee has a deep blue background. Wherever you turning her eyes, the image of the sea. And in the end, a theoratos rock, which seems to have dropped from a duel Titans. And stayed there forever, to look to the sea and to inspire people to tell stories.
The Kalamos, the second largest rock in the Mediterranean, after Gibraltar. At the top of the Monastery of Panagia replaced at some point, the Temple of Apollo who was here. Notation eternal need for people to reach high, touching god.
First stop, popular, perhaps, a beach of the island, KLEISIDI, with the crystal clear water and golden sand. Few visitors, most kataskinotes. Neither sunbeds, umbrellas either, nor improvised beach bars to cover the sound of waves. Heaven.
At midday, the tavernaki harbour, Nektaria our serves fresh fish and our talks about the AEK, which this year will take the Champions League, for life on the island, with its 300 residents, and tourism, which go around and Selling, 40 people came in August. "Do not properly considered leaving if I do not see sunrise from Kalamiotissa" tells us.
Continue to Roukoyna Mesa, who has acquired a reputation unfairly greater sandy beach in the Cyclades. Paraitoumai effort to find even a petroula across the beach - there is no live-and to admire the scenery, I wonder how such secrets have been left parties in Greece and trying to figure out how to mesh hour will take us to climb the Kalamos.
I have one - an hour and a half. Eventually it was little more than two. The road goes up a point, Zoodohos Pigi Monastery, at the foot of the cliff, and from there onwards you are confronted - said the second-largest amount - and volume, but that is another matter-rock of the Mediterranean.
The cliché "the spectacle will compensate" would follow, in other circumstances, the above proposal is too little to describe the picture antikrizeis from the top. The monastery of Our Lady Kalamiotissas seems to be floating above sea level, which shows both serene by tall, distant but at a distance… voutias. Do not try to.
The… myimenoi reach the top of Kalamos with sleeping bag and spend the night here to see the beautiful - without excesses-east of the Mediterranean. One katakokkinos sun is emerging from under their feet, vafontas the sea with beautiful colors of the day, creating one of those pictures that no camera can not catch. That is why visitors to the island returned again and again.
In the foot of the cliff, Drakontospilo deserves, also a visit while around here, the beach of Saint John, is rumoured that appear regularly flocks seals - which have not been able to see. Reserve.
A few hours later,… beach hopping continues. Katsouni, Flamouroy, Katelymatsa, Great River, the monastery, the Saints Anargyrous. Beaches of the island, one better than the other. All almost deserted, with crystal clear, crystal clear waters, soft sand and blue background, so there reaching the eye. Paramythenio scene, for the few. Dreamers. Erotefmenous. Taxideftes.
The days here flow slowly. Too late. As if it has stopped time. With endless roamings to the beautiful, stone-built narrow streets of Chora, fresh thalassinous snacks, what are catching the caiques, kouklistika tavernas in Agios Nikolaos, Roukoyna, KLEISIDI and, of course, Country, apogefmatinous coffees with a view of the sun voutaei at sea.
And when dark, homemade party in Armenaki. "Anyone who has musical institution brings." Singing, dancing, rakomela. All of a company. And we all end up in the Mylo, the bar of the Country, to continue until dawn. Only on weekends. The daily should anticipate to see sunrise from Kalamiotissa.
And from sightseeing? Few and well. The ancient Country, ranked Kastelli, which saved the walls, relics and tombs and Katelymatsa, the old port of the island, with the graves to indicate the existence of an ancient cemetery. And, of course, countless temples and churches which xefytronoun in every possible and unlikely point of the island.
On the last day, the small magazaki with souvenirs in the Country, I realized that what until now eklamvana as complaints from both hospitable, Best and proud residents of the island, was not only a close eye on ypopsiasmeno visitor, a peripaiktiki inclined towards those who were left to alothoun from tourism, a sense of gratitude for even kept secret.
"And what you want?" Said the owner "to fill these alleys intoxicated tourists, to break every night? As' to think that we do not have water to drink. Best way. " Indeed. Best case.
Accommodation
In Anafi you will not find 5-star hotels with pools and Jacuzzi. Who needs also unnecessary luxuries face of such images of natural beauty? But there are many lodgings, with a unique view of the sea, beautiful decorations and all the necessary facilities - a refrigerator, kitchenette, air condition-residence which will cost you from 30 to 50 euros, depending on the season.
Examples include Villa Galini (tel: 22860 61279), Panorama (tel: 22860 61292), Paradissos (tel: 22860 61243) and Maroulias Rooms (tel: 22860 61307) in the Country, and Villa Apollon in KLEISIDI (tel: 22860 61348, 61287).
As you will probably have understood, despite kakentrecheis diadoseis, and bread to eat and water to drink, but also - mainly-freskopsaremenes seafood delicacies and homemade food can be found on Anafi.
Exairetikous revythokeftedes and other local specialties will try the restaurant Margaritas in KLEISIDI, while the Country will go to the tavern by Alexandra for fresh fish and seafood, homemade astakomakaronada and local meat, with a magnificent view of the endless blue.
Astakomakaronada superb and others - freskotates-seafood delicacies will enjoy the "Akrogiali", in Agios Nikolaos, the island's port.
The evening party and improvised olonychtia local festivals organized in "Armenaki", which also has very good kitchen, while the café to strengthen country music and serve as bars.
Info
In Anafi will arrive by ferry from Piraeus to 17 hours - because of countless stopovers of the service. To avoid the polyoro journey, will combine with a day trip to Santorini, where you will get the local ship that will take you just two hours in Anafi.
The island is operating regular bus routes from the Country to the port and beaches, and the possibility to rent a car or motorbike.
